PARIS (AP) — Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri once again celebrated feminism and sisterhood in her collection for Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week, delving into the independent youth subculture styles of 1950s Britain.
Wearing a marl Dior dress, Jennifer Lawrence swept down the stone steps inside the Rodin Museum, the venue for Dior’s show on Tuesday, to form her own sisterhood with English actress Gemma Arterton and model Karlie Kloss.
Lawrence remained an island of calm in the heaving mass of cameras that eventually caused security to reroute guests. She showed her engagement ring from New York art gallerist Cooke Maroney as photographers vied for shots in the sweltering room.
Here are some highlights of the first full day of fall-winter 2019 collections at Paris Fashion Week:
A gargantuan art installation covered the runway walls, spelling out words such as “feminists”, as Dior’s first female designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri, took the theme to the sassy styles of British “Teddy Girls”, a rebellious breed of British teens during the 1950s.
It was new territory.
Monochrome gingham, full skirts, big black leather belts, pointy shoes and cutoff bobby socks all evoked the girls who formed part of a largely forgotten subculture that took its name from the Edwardian-style “Teddy” jacket donned by male adherents.
The Teddy Girls rebelled against austerity after World War II and replaced it with messy exuberance in their clothes. It’s laudable that Chiuri sought inspiration in “the queens of a ravaged landscape” who were “impertinent characters,” according to the description in the program notes.
For fall-winter, slightly awkward bell hat-hybrids led the eye down to Edwardian coats, their exaggerated lapels touched on a trend seen in Milan. Pleated or buttoned-down, full skirts evoked the end of wartime rationing.
The collection was far from glamorous. Intentionally so.
JACQUEMUS IS A SHOWMAN
The rising fashion showman of Paris Fashion Week, Simon Porte Jacquemus, recreated a village square in southern France, aptly named “Place Jacquemus,” for his collection in a warehouse space on the outskirts of the French capital.
In the bright colors of summer, Mediterranean-style shutters are flung open above a yellow bakery beside a sign advertising “pain”, French for bread. A house with drain pipes had wash hung up to dry on a line.
The sheer ambition and realism — the set continued around the sides of the seating — bowled over the audience on Monday night.
One guest reportedly called Jacquemus “the new Karl Lagerfeld.”
Style-wise, Jacquemus — who harks from Provence — continued to be inspired by and evoke his southern French roots. He referenced them in past collections, and the biographical fashion had started to wear a little thin.
Luckily, the 29-year-old moved in a welcome and more sophisticated direction this season without sacrificing the southern vibe.
Gone was the raw sensuality of bombshell femme fatales,. In its place were thoughtful and arty designs.
Loose silhouettes featured soft statement coats, culottes, pantsuits, buttoned-down shirts, utilitarian pockets and leg-long fisherman’s boots.
Vivid colors were the biggest statement of the collection: oranges, sea blues, greens and bright pink mirrored the eye-catching set.
SIA GOES TO THE BALLET
Australian pop singer and songwriter Sia has unveiled a shoe collection for French dance and fashion company Repetto.
The designs channeled three of the ballet-inspired house’s styles – the demi-pointe ballet slippers, the Sophia ballerina flat and the Zizi tuxedo-oxford.
To celebrate the project, Sia created a series of images with “muse” Maddie Ziegler, who as a girl rose to instant fame for her visceral dancing in the video for “Chandelier.”
Repetto called the designs “whimsical” and said the “collection will capture the spirit of everyone who lives to their own beat.”
Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K